On the tank
- Service valve — main shutoff to the regulator
- Fill valve — where the delivery truck connects (ACME standard thread)
- Vapor outlet — feeds the first-stage regulator
- Relief valve — vents over-pressure to atmosphere
- Liquid level gauge — fixed-tube valve used by drivers to verify 80% fill
- Dial percentage gauge — visual reading (0–80%)
Between tank and house
- First-stage regulator — drops tank pressure (~120 psi) to ~10 psi for the yard line
- Yard line / service line — buried PE tubing (most common) or copper, 18–24 inches deep with tracer wire
- Service line shut-off valve — typically at the house end of the yard line
At the house
- Second-stage regulator — drops yard-line pressure to ~11 in WC for appliances
- Building entry fitting — sealed connection into the home
- House piping — typically black iron or CSST, distributing to each appliance
- Appliance shut-off valves — individual valve at each appliance connection
Two-stage vs integrated regulators
Most US residential installations use separate first- and second-stage regulators (tank and house). Some use an integrated two-stage regulator that performs both pressure drops in one unit at the tank — simpler but limits how far the tank can sit from the house. Two-stage separate regulators allow longer yard lines.
FAQ
How long does a propane regulator last?
Manufacturer-recommended service life is 15–25 years. Most dealers replace regulators preventively at the 15-year mark on leased tanks. Customer-owned tanks: arrange periodic replacement with your service technician.
Should propane yard line be PE or copper?
PE (polyethylene) tubing is preferred for new installations: corrosion-resistant, flexible, easier to install, less prone to failure. Copper is sometimes used for short runs or where required by local code. Old steel yard lines should be replaced with PE during renovation.